Gianyar, Regency

Gianyar, The Hub of Woven Fabrics

In the palm-leaf manuscript Bima Swarga, there is a mention of lyric implying the meaning as follows: "Any woman who is unable to weave, when she dies later, her soul will stride in imperfect leap as she puts on goat’s leather to cover her genital."
These Lyrics can be interpreted that Balinese women are obliged and should have the capability of weaving during her lifetime or before passing away. This phenomenon was easily observed till the 1990s, where most Balinese women could weave. Just have a look at the Gianyar city graced by a large number of weaving industries.
According to Pande Subadra, the owner of Putri Bali weaving factory, during its golden period Gianyar was the top in the weaving domain. At that time, Gianyar was the centre of the biggest producers of woven cloth in Bali. There were around eight big weaving factories in the city such as Putri Bali, Togog, Cili, Putri Ayu, Hanoman and Karya.
Ngakan Putu Sujana, head of the production division at Togog weaving factory, adds that his company once employed 300 weavers. They were from villages around the Gianyar city like Siangan, Bitera, Buruan, Bedulu, Beng and other villages.
A unique experience can be obtained if you make a visit to one of those weaving factories in Gianyar. As soon as entering the gate, you will hear somewhat bizarre music. If you trace it carefully it’s the hit of non-mechanical weaving tools (ATBM) operated by women weavers.
Having observed the diligent women busy weaving, you may also purchase their works displayed at the showroom of each respective factory. Its selling prices are ranging from IDR 60,000 to IDR 120,000 per metre. Difference in pricing is caused by the motif of each cloth.
Today, the destiny of weaving entrepreneurs in Gianyar is not quite that good as it was in the past. "Weaving factories in Gianyar are now in a sluggish condition," says Pande Subadra while adding that there are two causes of such condition. Firstly, its materials should be imported from overseas and payment settled in dollars. Secondly, the decreasing purchasing power of the consumers.
This condition is confirmed by Ngakan Putu Sujana. He now employs 40 women. Tens of his ATBM tools are not in operation. Similar is happening with the Putri Bali and Cili weaving factory. One of the attendants of the factory told Bali Travel News that the factory has been closed several years ago. However, Ngakan Sujana remains optimistic that woven cloth of Gianyar will survive though it’s not like during the golden period in the past. It’s caused by the fact that community of Bali and outside Bali remain to love this woven cloth of Gianyar. Its marketing is now penetrating outside Bali to Java and Sulawesi. (BTN/Made Suambara)