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Klungkung,
Ancient Kingdoms
Gelgel
Village as the Centre of Genuine "Songket"
Fabric
Gelgel Village is one of the villages situated
in Klungkung Regency. It is some 4 km south
of Semarapura (Klungkung) city. Since 1998,
the Regional Government of Klungkung has
named Gelgel Village as a tourist object.
What
is the uniqueness of Gelgel Village? It’s
no other than its songket woven cloth. This
weaving craft has existed since 1920s. This
is stated by Ni Ketut Mami, a craftswoman
of songket woven cloth from Jerokapal hamlet,
Gelgel Village. Mami has been involved in
weaving songket cloth since she was 20 years
old.
Songket cloth of Bali is used as costume
in customary and religious ceremonies, such
as wedding and toot filing. Songket cloth,
either in the form of kamben, headdress,
saput and sash produced at Gelgel Village
utilizes a traditional weaving tool popularly
known as cagcag. The name of cagcag is probably
the onomatopoeia of the weaving tools sounding
cag-cag. This sound is heard when a weaver
tightens the spinning thread with wooden
blade (made from coconut trunk).
In terms of its name, the songket cloth
of Gelgel Village is the most renowned amongst
others existing in Klungkung Regency. The
songket cloth of Gelgel Village has the
best quality and its genuineness is guaranteed.
Because the threads woven to produce pieces
of songket fabric uses Mastuli silk thread
of which size is the smallest. This thread
and other accessories are purchased at thread
shops in Semarapura city. "At other
places, most craftsmen make use of thread
belonging to second quality and having a
larger size," utters the woman who
was born in 1947.
Also added, if using genuine thread, the
process of the making will take longer time.
As a consequence, the price of genuine songket
cloth is more expensive. When scaling, the
weight of genuine of songket cloth is heavier.
AA Biyang Mayun, a songket cloth weaver
from Gelgel Village, confirms the argument
of Mami.
To a great degree, the songket cloth weavers
existing at Gelgel Village are deeply involved
by household mothers. By the woven Mastuli
silk thread and using cag-cag weaving tool
combined with golden and silver thread eventually
produces distinctive motifs of songket cloth.
By nature, this motif is divided into two,
namely overall and frame motif. Colour of
this cloth varies as well, ranging from
pink, scarlet, blue, violet, green and black.
In terms of consumer’s demand, the
most favourite is the motif of square combined
with green, yellow and red. (BTN/033)
Having completed the space allocation, it’s
followed by incising the painting motif.
One set of lontar along with its bamboo
cover is finalized within two days. Completion
process will also depend very much on the
storyline made. For instance, a painting
of Balinese calendar, which contains 12
pieces, is completed within 3-4 days.
When the incision process is completed,
it is resumed with black colouring by pangi
fruit. It is performed by rubbing out the
motif resulted by incision. This rubbing
process will bring out the motif made into
view. Later, Madra arranges those pieces
of lontar in accordance with its hierarchical
storyline and then sewn by sewing machine.
Bamboo cover of the lontar set is embellished
with attractive ornament.
Works of Mandra are immensely favoured by
foreign tourists as they look like antique
articles. Tourists from America, France,
Japan and European countries frequently
visit his art shop and purchase his entire
stock for souvenir. His lontar works are
sold at the average price worth IDR 300,000.
Have any interest in this painting? If you
do, rush to make a visit to Kamasan Village.(BTN/033)
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