Johan Hensen Column Johan Hensen is a freelance writer and hospitality consultant. He can be reached at imsbali2006@yahoo.com or HP 081558582853

The Bali that you will never see, part 2

Those of you who follow my columns bi-weekly, will remember that in my previous column I wrote about a completely different way to go up north and discover the Real Paradise, a part of Bali that you probably will never see if touring Bali in the conventional way. When I told you to stay overnight at the Lumbung Bali Cottages at Munduk along the absolute stunning road along the Buyan and Tamblingan lakes and after trying the best fresh fruit-juices in Bali at the Panorama Café in Mayong, we went left at the end of that road.

This time we turn right at that junction, going north to Seririt. Here you turn right again and follow the coast road to Lovina and Singaraja, the former capital city of Bali. Along this road, you can see many stalls on the left and right side, selling grapes that are cultivated in this part of Bali. And guess what? Yes they do make real wines and “champagnes” out of those grapes. There is only one company in Bali that makes wine and it is called “Hatten Wines”. Without knowing this, you might have tried it already as it is for sale in many restaurants, hotels and supermarkets. In fact it is a very good holiday wine and not causing any headaches the next morning. I wanted to share my discovering experience with the process of this wine, but it seems that the company itself is not really interested in my review. Maybe they don’t need my recommendation and your interest. Who am I anyway?
Well, to continue our trip to Lovina you will pass some “must –see” places like: Banjar, Gobleg, Kayuputih and Selat. They are all on the right side of this main road. When finally arriving in Lovina, just go shopping for a nice and reasonable priced accommodation. There are lots of them from cheap home-stays (US$ 12 – 20) till upscale 5 star resorts. The main attraction of Lovina is the Dolphin watching tour. Early morning you go out on the ocean with a fisherman and his tiny boat. After about 30 till 45 minutes you will meet the many dolphins playing around. In the western world we can only see them in man-made Dolphin parks, but here they live and play in their own free environment. And the fisherman’s boat ride makes it even more an unforgettable adventure.
While at Lovina, make a trip to Gitgit and enjoy the beautiful waterfalls there. But besides this waterfall, also visit another unique natural product that this paradise of Bali is offering us. Well, we do like the good things in life, don’t we? And now we have the chance to witness, see, feel, touch and smell the whole process by ourselves. Ask for the small boutique brewery named “Storm Beer”. It is not the only beer brewed in Bali, but also the only natural beer made in the whole of Indonesia, that is brewing its products without the addition of any chemicals and still by hand. You should use the opportunity to try and taste these delicious beers! Even my Companion enjoyed the taste of it and that means something as she is not a beer fanatic. Because of that I secretly bought some bottles of each type, as I promised myself a nice romantic beer and fish party later tonight…….
But back to my story: This all shows that this northern part of Bali is well worth to spend a couple of days. However most visitors are just visiting during a daytrip or a one night only stay and are returning to southern Bali after the Dolphin tour. What a pity and what a waste.
Instead of using the normal road back to the south from Singaraja to Bedugul, I recommend you to take the coastal road from Singaraja to Karangasem, It is the main Northern road eastwards. After leaving Singaraja, follow this road for about 27 kilometers and not long after passing Air Sanih, you arrive at a tiny village called “Pacung”. Here you have to make a stop and visit the real village life. Also, go and visit Nyoman Sarmika and his lovely wife Made. They are the people behind the Surya Indigo group. This group is weaving cotton and silk textiles in a traditional way, called “Bebali”, while using only natural dyeing techniques. This was once so normal for all of us worldwide, but nowadays you have to come all the way to Bali to find it.
Again, this is what makes Bali so unique, an island that is doing all it can to make sure that the environment is not polluted, while still maintaining their traditions.
You will be surprised when seeing the colors and patterns from the clothes made in their workshop.
It is difficult to say goodbye to this very friendly people, but we have to move on, isn’t it?
Back on the mainroad and just past Bondalem village, we take the right turn to Kintamani. This is a different steep road approaching Kintamani and the Mount Batur volcano from another side than usual. It is only when you try it out yourself, that you will believe me when saying that this is absolutely gorgeous nature. You will be confused where to look: right, left, in front, what to photograph and so on. Just take your time, as we are making a stop at Batur and will stay there overnight to explore the attractions of this active volcano, its fabulous lake and the crater itself.
I am sure that you must be exhausted from this trip, at least I am and I want to enjoy some of the Storm Beer samples that I bought at their brewery. No better place than at the terrace of one of the small, but good hotels along the lakeside.
The next time I will tell you about the great time my Companion and I had at this Batur area.
I hope that not too many readers are following my recommendation, as such a romantic experience will definite lead to a baby booming period 9 months later. Have a great time and enjoy Bali.