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Going through Tranquil Ambience in Bali
Are you spending your holiday in Bali in
the mid of this March? Congratulations!
At that time, you will relish the unique
tradition of Balinese people called Nyepi,
falling on Monday 19 March 2007. Tradition
of this Balinese ancestral heritage possibly
could not be encountered elsewhere or in
the countries you know because on the Nyepi
feast day, Bali suddenly turns to become
a serene island for 24 hours. From 06:00
up to 06:00 on the next day, all economic
activities come to a stop. Market, shop,
supermarket or stall is close and so do
terminal of land, sea or air transportation.
As a consequence, streets will be freed
from vehicles. Marine territory of Bali
will be freed from ships and its sky free
from aircrafts. Tourist objects and facilities
across Bali will also be closed, so for
24 hours you should stay at your hotel or
guest house and can not make any excursion
to tourist objects.
Likewise, all dwellers of Bali should stay
at home or sanctums to perform yoga samadhi
(spiritual activity, without using oblation
and incense stick). In the evening, the
atmosphere progressively grips one with
fear as all lamps are turned off, either
that on the streets, homes or hotels where
you stay.
How peaceful and quiet the Island of Bali
is that you will go through on the Nyepi
feast day. No crowded noise of cars, aircrafts
or ships. The air would be sensed purer
and fresher, as it is free from smokes and
pollution. Surrounding environment would
also be comfortable as all people discontinue
their activities. This circumstance is truly
different from that of its day-to-day life
that is overfilled by activities and bustles
of land, sea and air traffics.
Melasti
procession
Melasti commences the procession of Nyepi
feast day to sea. This ritual is equivalent
to sincere gratitude expression to the Lord
Varuna, god of the waters who has endowed
the holy water of life without end. Similarly,
the melasti ritual signifies the purification
of macrocosm (universe) and microcosm (human
self). Sea represents the cleansing of impurities.
Through this melasti procession, human being
purifies its environment and themselves
from any impurities, either those generated
by mind, word or deed.
People frequently raise this question: why
should the melasti procession be performed
at sea? To Balinese people, sea has special
connotation and constitutes a sacred location.
In plain view, if observed, seawater is
always clear as inside the seawater occurs
the life cycle and natural cleansing.
According to a Balinese Hindu figure, Prof.
Dr. I Gusti Ngurah Nala, large and small
fish discard organic waste matter and this
is then perfectly decomposed by bacteria
into organic product. This product gets
to be foodstuff and enables the life and
flourishing of marine algae and plankton
to become the food source of small fish.
Meanwhile, small fish is the food source
of larger fish. Dead body of large and small
fish are broken apart into food source of
algae and plankton. Thus the life cycle
transpires perfectly in the mid of the sea
so the purity and clarity stay well maintained.
Maintaining the purity and cleanliness of
the seawater persistently, to Hindus, is
equally important to maintaining the purity
and survival of human beings. In the pastime,
ancestors of the Hindus stipulated the ocean
as the wellspring of immutable holy water
to purify all impurities of the world and
human life.
The Mahabharata epic puts an infix of “the
whirling of mandara giri” where the
gods should attempt to stir the milky ocean
by whirling a mountain in order to obtain
the tirtha amerta (holy water of immortality).
So does Bima that should dive into the bottom
of the sea to meet Lord Ruci to invoke such
holy water. Sublime value that is worth
quoting from this story is of course by
clear mind and genuine heart to work hard,
human being will arrive at bliss and life
prosperity.
Tawur
Kesanga and Ogoh-ogoh
Having undertaken the melasti procession,
it’s resumed with the Tawur Kesanga,
Sunday 18 March 2007 coinciding with the
Tilem Kesanga (new moon in the ninth month
of Balinese calendar). The Tawur Kesanga
(grand exorcism rite) is carried out right
at midday when the sun is over the head,
around 12.00 at the heart of city, customary
village throughout Bali consisting of some
1,300 units. For Denpasar city, it is usually
held at the Puputan Badung Square (city
center).
There are also some villages performing
it in the afternoon, in compliance with
the local tradition inherited through generations.
For instance, at Kuta Customary Village,
the Tawur Kesangan procession is held in
the afternoon at the crossroad heading for
the Kuta Beach at around 15.00. Should you
intend to relish sunset at that time, you’d
better see this procession first to enrich
your holiday experience.
Tawur Kesanga denotes a symbol of human
effort to bring back the balance and harmony
of the universe along with its entire contents.
Hinduism delivers guidance to human beings
in order they conserve its balance. In other
words, it is appealed not to exploit the
natural resources greedily exceeding the
necessity. The environmental destruction
and air pollution affects the ozone layer,
the terrestrial shield, to increasingly
become less and less; even some have got
perforated caused by human beings deeds
that are unable to care for the environmental
conservation and harmony of nature.
Still pertaining to the Tawur Kesanga, right
on the sandhyakala (nightfall) is performed
the Ngerupuk, surrounding the house compound
by bringing a torch, making sounds, spittling
every house’s corner with chewing
meswi (Massoia aromatica) spice. Significance
of this rite is to neutralize the power
of nature so all house indwellers can live
peacefully and quietly. Furthermore at the
level of customary village, the sekaa taruna
(village youth club) shoulder an ogoh-ogoh
(papier mâché demon) en masse
along the village.
In Denpasar and tourist resorts like Kuta
or Sanur, this ogoh-ogoh parade becomes
a charming attraction as various kinds of
ogoh-ogoh put into the parade while dancing
and accompanied with beleganjur gamelan
orchestra. Even, you yourselves could join
to shoulder it provided getting permission
in advance to the local village administrator.
Shape of ogoh-ogoh is made in such an artistic
way and shows off the amazing art creativity.
Expenses for this may reach tens of millions
of Roepiah, which is acquired through voluntary
donation. The splendour of this ogoh-ogoh
parade implies to bring back the bhutakala
to their respective abode, so they would
not tease the human life any longer.
Essential meaning of the Ngerupuk ritual
is that the human beings are led to control
their demonic character affixed on themselves.
In addition, parading the ogoh-ogoh can
also become a reflection for the world leaders
in order not to hesitate to remove and punish
those who have done corruption and exploited
the natural resources greedily for the sake
of their own and group interest.
Series of Tawur Kesanga and Ngerupuk are
symbol to reach the bhuta-hita or jagadhita
(harmony and prosperity of the universe
together with its beings). In the midst
of social conflict killing many lives and
taking treasures as well as the damage of
the environment around the globe at this
time, the Tawur Kesanga and Ngerupuk have
crucial and exceptional meaning.
Significance
of Nyepi
The Nyepi feast day is marked by undertaking
bratha penyepian (abstinences during the
Nyepi). The Balinese enter a serene moment,
perfectly silent. As mentioned in the palm-leaf
manuscript Sundarigama, devotees should
perform the abstinences consisting of amati
geni (lighting no fire), amati karya (no
working), amati lelungan (no travelling)
and amati lelanguan (no relishing any entertainment).
Since they concentrate on those abstinences,
Bali Island automatically turns totally
silent, just like an uninhabited island.
In the evening, it’s absolutely dark.
Similarly, its ambience is so quiet and
pollution-free.
Essentially, amati geni denotes a guidance
to empty out the emotion by controlling
the passion of senses as taught in the Sarasamuccaya.
“As a matter of fact, senses are assumed
a heaven and hell, if one is capable of
controlling it, it’s called heaven
and if she or he is not, it’s just
like a hell”. In the Mahabharata epic
is told about the King Duryodhana and his
cronies who unable to control their passion
are ultimately trapped in the civil war
conflict until they are killed in the Bharatayudha
warfare. The fire of passion to struggle
for the throne and an attempt to dominate
the truth amongst the world leaders should
also be controlled to make this world peaceful
and filled with brotherhood.
Meanwhile, the amati karya or doing no activities
primarily means guidance for self-introspection,
contemplation towards all deeds performed
during the last year. Everybody should consider,
separate or determine the bad and good of
a deed, as whatever deed one performs will
surely bear a fruit (effect), it would be
lucky if the proceeds are good and could
make the people prosperous. The Sarasamuccaya
also reminds us that one would be renowned
as a descendant with noble character in
terms of the proceeds of his or her work
for the sake of public interest, not of
what he or she has taken from nature just
for self-interest.
Amati lelungan and amati lelanguan also
make people aware in order they are not
easily tempted by hedonistic life style.
Qualities like unserious, extravagant, and
jealous of seeing others’ progress
and self-satisfaction should be avoided,
as it’s contradictory to the miserable
condition of countries all over the world—chiefly
the third countries.
In the Ramayana epic is narrated, when Vibhisana
came to throne at Lanka following the death
of Ravana, first thing first reminded by
Rama is Vibhisana should pay utmost attention
to his subjects. “Save your country
and subjects from destruction, and do not
forget to make reflection on the path religious
teaching,” Rama utters.
In Bali, this Rama’s guidance is better
known as Astabrata teaching or eight kinds
of leadership management consisting of Indra,
Surya, Vayu, Yama, Varuna, Candra, Agni
and Prativi brata. This teaching should
be re-contemplated by national leaders if
they would like to set free the world from
multidimensional crisis.
One day after Nyepi is called Ngembak Geni,
where Balinese people break their fasting,
discontinue the four abstinences and enter
the Saka New Year 1929. Life activities
are started with newly atmosphere and gusto.
This day, you can resume your island excursion
to visit some tourist objects around Bali
and watch closer the daily activity of its
people. In the meantime, at Sesetan Village,
South Denpasar you can watch a unique attraction
called Med-medan. When this takes place
in the midst of street, boys and girls group
embrace one another before they are released
from the hug by pouring water onto them.
How unique the Nyepi feast day in Bali is.
Therefore, relish this uniqueness while
going on an excursion and feel the serenity
of Nyepi that you could only find in Bali.
(BTN/Ketut Sumadi)
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