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Going through Tranquil Ambience in Bali

Are you spending your holiday in Bali in the mid of this March? Congratulations! At that time, you will relish the unique tradition of Balinese people called Nyepi, falling on Monday 19 March 2007. Tradition of this Balinese ancestral heritage possibly could not be encountered elsewhere or in the countries you know because on the Nyepi feast day, Bali suddenly turns to become a serene island for 24 hours. From 06:00 up to 06:00 on the next day, all economic activities come to a stop. Market, shop, supermarket or stall is close and so do terminal of land, sea or air transportation.
As a consequence, streets will be freed from vehicles. Marine territory of Bali will be freed from ships and its sky free from aircrafts. Tourist objects and facilities across Bali will also be closed, so for 24 hours you should stay at your hotel or guest house and can not make any excursion to tourist objects.
Likewise, all dwellers of Bali should stay at home or sanctums to perform yoga samadhi (spiritual activity, without using oblation and incense stick). In the evening, the atmosphere progressively grips one with fear as all lamps are turned off, either that on the streets, homes or hotels where you stay.
How peaceful and quiet the Island of Bali is that you will go through on the Nyepi feast day. No crowded noise of cars, aircrafts or ships. The air would be sensed purer and fresher, as it is free from smokes and pollution. Surrounding environment would also be comfortable as all people discontinue their activities. This circumstance is truly different from that of its day-to-day life that is overfilled by activities and bustles of land, sea and air traffics.

Melasti procession
Melasti commences the procession of Nyepi feast day to sea. This ritual is equivalent to sincere gratitude expression to the Lord Varuna, god of the waters who has endowed the holy water of life without end. Similarly, the melasti ritual signifies the purification of macrocosm (universe) and microcosm (human self). Sea represents the cleansing of impurities. Through this melasti procession, human being purifies its environment and themselves from any impurities, either those generated by mind, word or deed.
People frequently raise this question: why should the melasti procession be performed at sea? To Balinese people, sea has special connotation and constitutes a sacred location. In plain view, if observed, seawater is always clear as inside the seawater occurs the life cycle and natural cleansing.
According to a Balinese Hindu figure, Prof. Dr. I Gusti Ngurah Nala, large and small fish discard organic waste matter and this is then perfectly decomposed by bacteria into organic product. This product gets to be foodstuff and enables the life and flourishing of marine algae and plankton to become the food source of small fish. Meanwhile, small fish is the food source of larger fish. Dead body of large and small fish are broken apart into food source of algae and plankton. Thus the life cycle transpires perfectly in the mid of the sea so the purity and clarity stay well maintained.
Maintaining the purity and cleanliness of the seawater persistently, to Hindus, is equally important to maintaining the purity and survival of human beings. In the pastime, ancestors of the Hindus stipulated the ocean as the wellspring of immutable holy water to purify all impurities of the world and human life.
The Mahabharata epic puts an infix of “the whirling of mandara giri” where the gods should attempt to stir the milky ocean by whirling a mountain in order to obtain the tirtha amerta (holy water of immortality). So does Bima that should dive into the bottom of the sea to meet Lord Ruci to invoke such holy water. Sublime value that is worth quoting from this story is of course by clear mind and genuine heart to work hard, human being will arrive at bliss and life prosperity.

Tawur Kesanga and Ogoh-ogoh
Having undertaken the melasti procession, it’s resumed with the Tawur Kesanga, Sunday 18 March 2007 coinciding with the Tilem Kesanga (new moon in the ninth month of Balinese calendar). The Tawur Kesanga (grand exorcism rite) is carried out right at midday when the sun is over the head, around 12.00 at the heart of city, customary village throughout Bali consisting of some 1,300 units. For Denpasar city, it is usually held at the Puputan Badung Square (city center).
There are also some villages performing it in the afternoon, in compliance with the local tradition inherited through generations. For instance, at Kuta Customary Village, the Tawur Kesangan procession is held in the afternoon at the crossroad heading for the Kuta Beach at around 15.00. Should you intend to relish sunset at that time, you’d better see this procession first to enrich your holiday experience.
Tawur Kesanga denotes a symbol of human effort to bring back the balance and harmony of the universe along with its entire contents. Hinduism delivers guidance to human beings in order they conserve its balance. In other words, it is appealed not to exploit the natural resources greedily exceeding the necessity. The environmental destruction and air pollution affects the ozone layer, the terrestrial shield, to increasingly become less and less; even some have got perforated caused by human beings deeds that are unable to care for the environmental conservation and harmony of nature.
Still pertaining to the Tawur Kesanga, right on the sandhyakala (nightfall) is performed the Ngerupuk, surrounding the house compound by bringing a torch, making sounds, spittling every house’s corner with chewing meswi (Massoia aromatica) spice. Significance of this rite is to neutralize the power of nature so all house indwellers can live peacefully and quietly. Furthermore at the level of customary village, the sekaa taruna (village youth club) shoulder an ogoh-ogoh (papier mâché demon) en masse along the village.
In Denpasar and tourist resorts like Kuta or Sanur, this ogoh-ogoh parade becomes a charming attraction as various kinds of ogoh-ogoh put into the parade while dancing and accompanied with beleganjur gamelan orchestra. Even, you yourselves could join to shoulder it provided getting permission in advance to the local village administrator.
Shape of ogoh-ogoh is made in such an artistic way and shows off the amazing art creativity. Expenses for this may reach tens of millions of Roepiah, which is acquired through voluntary donation. The splendour of this ogoh-ogoh parade implies to bring back the bhutakala to their respective abode, so they would not tease the human life any longer.
Essential meaning of the Ngerupuk ritual is that the human beings are led to control their demonic character affixed on themselves. In addition, parading the ogoh-ogoh can also become a reflection for the world leaders in order not to hesitate to remove and punish those who have done corruption and exploited the natural resources greedily for the sake of their own and group interest.
Series of Tawur Kesanga and Ngerupuk are symbol to reach the bhuta-hita or jagadhita (harmony and prosperity of the universe together with its beings). In the midst of social conflict killing many lives and taking treasures as well as the damage of the environment around the globe at this time, the Tawur Kesanga and Ngerupuk have crucial and exceptional meaning.

Significance of Nyepi
The Nyepi feast day is marked by undertaking bratha penyepian (abstinences during the Nyepi). The Balinese enter a serene moment, perfectly silent. As mentioned in the palm-leaf manuscript Sundarigama, devotees should perform the abstinences consisting of amati geni (lighting no fire), amati karya (no working), amati lelungan (no travelling) and amati lelanguan (no relishing any entertainment).
Since they concentrate on those abstinences, Bali Island automatically turns totally silent, just like an uninhabited island. In the evening, it’s absolutely dark. Similarly, its ambience is so quiet and pollution-free.
Essentially, amati geni denotes a guidance to empty out the emotion by controlling the passion of senses as taught in the Sarasamuccaya. “As a matter of fact, senses are assumed a heaven and hell, if one is capable of controlling it, it’s called heaven and if she or he is not, it’s just like a hell”. In the Mahabharata epic is told about the King Duryodhana and his cronies who unable to control their passion are ultimately trapped in the civil war conflict until they are killed in the Bharatayudha warfare. The fire of passion to struggle for the throne and an attempt to dominate the truth amongst the world leaders should also be controlled to make this world peaceful and filled with brotherhood.
Meanwhile, the amati karya or doing no activities primarily means guidance for self-introspection, contemplation towards all deeds performed during the last year. Everybody should consider, separate or determine the bad and good of a deed, as whatever deed one performs will surely bear a fruit (effect), it would be lucky if the proceeds are good and could make the people prosperous. The Sarasamuccaya also reminds us that one would be renowned as a descendant with noble character in terms of the proceeds of his or her work for the sake of public interest, not of what he or she has taken from nature just for self-interest.
Amati lelungan and amati lelanguan also make people aware in order they are not easily tempted by hedonistic life style. Qualities like unserious, extravagant, and jealous of seeing others’ progress and self-satisfaction should be avoided, as it’s contradictory to the miserable condition of countries all over the world—chiefly the third countries.
In the Ramayana epic is narrated, when Vibhisana came to throne at Lanka following the death of Ravana, first thing first reminded by Rama is Vibhisana should pay utmost attention to his subjects. “Save your country and subjects from destruction, and do not forget to make reflection on the path religious teaching,” Rama utters.
In Bali, this Rama’s guidance is better known as Astabrata teaching or eight kinds of leadership management consisting of Indra, Surya, Vayu, Yama, Varuna, Candra, Agni and Prativi brata. This teaching should be re-contemplated by national leaders if they would like to set free the world from multidimensional crisis.
One day after Nyepi is called Ngembak Geni, where Balinese people break their fasting, discontinue the four abstinences and enter the Saka New Year 1929. Life activities are started with newly atmosphere and gusto. This day, you can resume your island excursion to visit some tourist objects around Bali and watch closer the daily activity of its people. In the meantime, at Sesetan Village, South Denpasar you can watch a unique attraction called Med-medan. When this takes place in the midst of street, boys and girls group embrace one another before they are released from the hug by pouring water onto them. How unique the Nyepi feast day in Bali is. Therefore, relish this uniqueness while going on an excursion and feel the serenity of Nyepi that you could only find in Bali. (BTN/Ketut Sumadi)

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