Nyepi at Kuta “Global Kampong”
Ogoh-Ogoh for Tourists and Blue Ray Dancing on the Waves

Ritual procession on welcoming the Nyepi or Day of Silence at the Customary Village of Kuta, the first developed tourist resort in Bali, seemed a bit different from that of other regions. The Kuta Customary Villagers looked undisturbed by the presence of tourists during the ritual procession. In religious terms the Melasti procession is for taking the holy water in the midst of the ocean and then sprinkling it on the villagers and their environment and Tawur Kesanga ritual at the main crossroad serves to establish a harmony of natural power to prevent any calamity. The presence of tourists watching such ritual procession even made devotees feel proud as their cultural capital is so strong amid the influence of tourism culture. “It’s proof that the identity of Kuta’s culture is not sunk by the stream of tourism market ideology. We are not willing to be demolished by tourism culture. “We could obviously distinguish which one is for religious interest and which one may be enjoyed by tourists,” argued the Head of Kuta Customary Village, I Gusti Ketut Sudira and the former head, I Made Wendra accompanied by section head of Parahyangan (religious affairs), I Nyoman Jesna Astawa when being asked about his comment on the phenomenon of such post-spirituality.
Pengerupukan ritual, jazzed up by ogoh-ogoh (papier mâché demon) symbolizes nature’s negative power that should be neutralized so that it could not engender any calamity and annoy the human life. For this time, the foreign tourists were given an opportunity to assess the art creation of the ogoh-ogoh in terms of its design, artistic decoration and philosophy that can be read on the disseminated synopsis. “We are intentionally involving foreign tourists in this ogoh-ogoh parade in order they could appreciate our culture and at the same time it becomes an intriguing story for them to relate after returning home. It’s a good promotion to show our art and culture,” revealed I Gusti Ketut Sudira. Wayan Urip Suardana, a pecalang officer of Kuta Customary Village who is also an usadhic (traditional healing) practitioner, expressed a similar opinion that tourists should be engaged and given understanding on the culture so that they continue to come to Kuta. “It’s the community-based tourism, right?” he added while laughing.
According to the Head of Ogoh-Ogoh Competition Committee, Kadek Suastika, the Kuta community is very delighted that their ogoh-ogoh is assessed by foreign touristsas it produced a fairer result and could not be interfered with by any party who would like to become a winner. “The best will win the day,” affirmed Suastika accompanied by the Committee’s Secretary, I Putu Rudi Hartawan. The customary village’s party delivered a financial assistance worth IDR 5 million to every hamlet to make the ogoh-ogoh competition a success. The Kuta community has agreed that whoever becomes the winner in the competition would constitute their winner. They have won in upholding the cultural identity based on the Tri Hita Karana concept in the midst of ideological pressure of capitalistic tourism market. AA Ngurah Bahagia, a young villager of Temacun Hamlet also felt so satisfied with the assessment performed by tourists. “Perhaps, this ogoh-ogoh is for tourists,” he said.
The ogoh-ogoh parade was started around 6:00 pm Local Time and continued until late. It was inaugurated by the Head of Kuta District, I Gede Wijaya. Through the ogoh-ogoh parade and Nyepi celebration I Gede Wijaya would like to take all components of the community to improve the togetherness in maintaining Kuta as a tourist destination. “This togetherness is remarkably significant as every single human has shortage and excess,” he added. The cooperation that has been well established between the community, government and tourism businesspeople in Kuta needs improving, particularly in maintaining the security and developing infrastructure like roads and waste disposal sites in order that Kuta becomes a secure and convenient tourist resort.
The attraction was centralized in front of the Village Temple where all parade participants brought and danced their ogoh-ogoh in accordance with the synopsis. In the evening, all ogoh-ogoh effigies looked so vibrant and attractive to tourists. Roads in Kuta were very crowded and filled with religiosity mixed with tourist activity. Hoteliers also offered “Nyepi Packages” with special rates, slightly more expensive than regular rates since guests could not shop outside the hotel.
Participants taking the honors on the competition consisted of the Youth Club of Anyar Hamlet (winner) presenting the theme “The Spinning of Mount Mandara Giri”, Pemamoran Hamlet (second place) with “Hirania Kasipu” and then Tebesari Hamlet (third placer) with its “Jatayu”. The winners were respectively rewarded with cash worth IDR 2.5 million (first place winner), IDR 1.5 million (second place) and IDR 750,000 (third place).

Nyepi Ambience and Blue Ray
As in previous years, the four abstinences of Nyepi on 7 March 2008 at Kuta Customary Village according to its head, I Gusti Ketut Sudira was conducted properly. All villagers including tourists are not allowed to leave their home, are banned from lighting the fire/lamp, prohibited entertainment and may not work. The execution of these abstinences was controlled by pecalangs of Kuta Customary Village. Considering that Nyepi occurred on Friday when Moslems would also say prayers, it was agreed the time for prayers would be from 11:00 am to 1:00 pm Local Time.
At night, the precaution of pecalangs is highly improved to provide security and convenience to villagers and tourists during the darkness. According to Nyoman Bagiana Karang, that night Kuta radiated a magical vibration as a tourist resort guarded by magical power. The ambience was disturbed when, once in a while the sound of barking dogs made the hair on the back of the neck stand up! Made Karma, Nengah Muliastra and Nyoman Bagiana Karang saw a round white ray like a moon on the west horizon of Kuta Beach. Then a round blue ray like a ping-pong ball dancing on the waves also appeared. “It’s one of the magical powers that showed itself to safeguard Kuta,” guessed Bagiana Karang who is also a spiritual enthusiast.
The Head of Kuta Customary Village and Kuta District jointly affirmed that the silence and sacredness of Nyepi may not be stained by tourism lifestyle. All components, according to them, should be able to distinguish between the nation’s interest and the policy of “cultural tourism”, market interest or tourism market that should stay competitive and societal interest where the community of Kuta is determined to maintain their identity or local genius in the tourism development. The Kuta community indeed has been open to Western cultural transformation due to the dynamic of tourism. (BTN/Ketut Sumadi)

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