Balinese Life
Peken Kresek, “The Short Time Market”

In the midst of mushrooming supermarkets and malls or other modern hypermarkets, the people of Bali still maintain their traditional markets. One of them is called “Peken Kresek”.

Etymologically, they are derived from Balinese words “peken” meaning market and “kresek” means short time. Thus, Peken Kresek means a short-time market as in terms of its duration it opens for a relatively short time.
The traders are usually ready at 04.30 (at dawn) and break up at 06.30 (at sunrise). It is different from usual traditional markets as it has a special location, managed by a market officer who sets up a fixed board sign, so Peken Kresek do not have any permanent location. Sometimes, it is nomadic depending on the situation and needs. If there is no empty land, it frequently takes advantage the Bale Banjar (village hall) for setting up the Peken Kresek.
Since it is an impromptu market, traders that do selling should prepare equipment by themselves. They bring their goods along with table, chair and so forth from home. As they run their business in the dead of morning, they usually sell side dishes and vegetables like water spinach, cucumber, tomato, various spices, salted fish and so on. Those are generally agricultural products that have been picked the previous day.
Because it is not legally organized, there are not usually any charges for traders, like daily ticket charges. Household mothers whose house is away from the general market usually visits this Peken Kresek. She chooses “Pasar Kresek” as she does not want to do shopping in a noisy group at a bigger market. In addition, the prices in short-time market are relatively the same, or even cheaper, than that of a general market. (Sutrarama)

Get the Morning Price Everyday

When the roosters were crowing, the market was already open, when the dawn breaks on the eastern horizon it is crowded with people. That is the daily view of some traditional markets in Bali. Many people are busy at buying their daily needs. Some brokers on the roadside obtain their supplies in a noisy group. Meanwhile, market porters, mostly women, are busy with their baskets on their heads.

This situation was not the same a few decades ago, as market day was determined only once in a three-week day basis (viz. pasah, beteng, kajeng) and it was certainly not so busy as that of today. Each traditional market has its own market day. But nowadays, it dramatically changes. Almost everyday all markets are overwhelmed by traders and buyers. Activities at some sizable traditional markets in Bali ‘beat’ nearly around the clock. Late morning up to the afternoon, they operate as regular markets while from nightfall to midnight, it runs as a night market where assorted Indonesian cuisines, including Balinese specialties, are on offer. In some regions in Bali, these night market are also known as “Pasar Senggol” as the market crowded or so small that people bump into each other.
Why traditional? Firstly, most goods are sold at an unfixed price, so buyers should bargain to get the best and affordable price. For local buyers, the merchants will give their ‘initial offer’ (Balinese: gegarus) to attract buyers. But, we do not know for sure whether it is really cheaper or higher than the normal price. If we further bargain, they may say that they slightly mark-up the price just for a ‘fee’ of waiting in the shop. This may be the so-called ‘dialect of traditional markets.’ For foreign visitors, they may offer a ‘morning price’ even though the visit is not made on that morning.
Secondly, it gives the opportunity to small to medium scale traders. This category also includes ‘freelance’ traders that have no fixed shop or market stall. They sell their goods in open air spaces that has been allocated and just need a ticket for a temporary place including security and clean-up service charges. The goods they sell may be of their own making. Due to having more than the need for consumption, they sell it and then buy others for the exchange.
Thirdly, most traditional markets are managed by regional administration through PD Pasar, while the smaller ones are managed by village administrations.
Traditional markets can also be an interesting destination for visitors. Some travel agents or tour operators may include morning markets in the itinerary of their city tours. For Denpasar city tours packages, they usually drop in at Sanglah, Badung or Kreneng markets before resuming the journey to art center or Bali Museum. In traditional markets, visitors can find traditional cakes, food, fresh local fruits et cetera. In addition, they also get in touch with local people and enjoy the friendliness of its nature. Even though some locals may not understand the language the tourist speaks, but by a smile and universal gestures, communication can work. Visitors can ask for information at the administration office or the local tour guide may be of service.
When visiting crowded markets, or passing near ‘medicinal sellers’ using a megaphone surrounded by many people, it is advisable to make sure the belongings are already put in a safe place. Pickpockets may take advantage of this opportunity. Have an enjoyable sightsee!

(BTN/Wayan Punia)